Day 12 and 13. Up and Over the Pyrenees

Writing this on Monday, May 6. The last couple of days of our journey were intense, but we were so driven to finish the trek that we didn't realize how exhausted we were until the day after we were done.

We reached St. Jean Pied de Port on Wednesday, May 1. We were so excited to reach St. Jean, it was such a lively, beautiful town at the foot of the Pyrenees, filled with pilgrims getting ready to begin their journey to Santiago de Compostela, as it is the usual starting place for those starting the Camino in France. Those starting in Spain normally will begin n Roncesvalles, Spain. The first photo below shows us as we just arrived in St. Jean, stopping for lunch at a sidewalk cafe.

The second photo below is a copy of our map of the Pyrenees route. It shows the altitude gain of 1400 meters (4200 feet) from St. Jean, followed by a decent into Roncesvalles once we cross the border into Spain. Many pilgrims get injured on this stretch, especially if they are just starting out and are not yet used to trekking with a huge backpack.

The day before we arrived, the pass was closed because of the bad weather, but the pass opened on the day we arrived in St. Jean. That afternoon we walked the first 6 kilometers of the pass. The next day we started at the same place we left off. Getting the first 6 km of uphill done helped the next day.

On Thursday morning we continued the trek. The day started out pleasant, though cloudy. Because of trekking uphill we warmed up quickly and were just wearing our tshirt layers. Then it got windy and cold and soon started to rain. We soon had to put all our layers back on. Near the high point of the pass and downhill into Spain we came to snow that was left from the storm of the previous days. At one point we had to trek down a snow covered hill. Krishna sledded down the snow on his bottom. Several pilgrims did the same. Wish we could have taken a video of it.

On the Spain side we walked through birch tree forests. The paths were covered with carpets of birch leaves, so beautiful. As we walked into Roncesvalles it was raining. We went to the pilgrims office and received the Roncesvalles stamp in our pilgrim passport, the same stamp we received when we started our first Camino more than a decade ago. We had come full circle and have now, finally, completed this journey of 1000 miles! Such happiness and joy at that moment!

That evening we attended the pilgrim mass in the monastery church at Roncesvalles. There the priest blessed the pilgrims who were about to begin their pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela and we felt blessed to have finally completed our journey.

We spent some time at La Posada, a bar at the entry to Roncesvalles, greeting pilgrims as they arrived from St. Jean and sharing stories about the Camino. Krishna bought beers for many exhausted looking pilgrims and gave them lots of encouragement.

The next morning we said goodby to our friends from the US, Canada and Australia who walked with us the last 2 weeks, and began the second part of our trip. We rented a car in Pamplona are are now driving toward Santiago de Compostela, visiting some favorite places along the Camino and reliving some special moments. When we reach Santiago, our plan is to return our rental car at the airport and walk the last approximately 10 miles into the city along the Camino route (which passes near the airport) and reach the Cathedral on foot to pay homage to St. James and perform the pilgrim rituals once more.

Day 11 Olhaiby to Utziate, Basque Country - rain, sun and hail

We started the day in pouring rain, wearing four layers and rain gear. Before long though the sun began to peak out of the dark clouds. We crossed a pretty bridge, called, Moulin Bridge then ascended up a rocky, slippery, muddy track to a small hamlet called, Gibraltar.

Gibraltar was a highlight of the day - it is the spot where three French Camino routes meet (the one from le Puy which we took, one from Vezeley, and one from Paris). A stone marker denotes the junction.

From Gibraltar it was an uphill trek to Soyarza Chapel at the top of a hill where we were rewarded with a most beautiful panoramic view of the Pyrenees. We were so lucky the sun was still isthmus for a while and we could enjoy the moments.

After a quick picnic lunch we started walking again and soon had to quickly put our rain gear on for a sudden downpour. Very few places have been open in the small French towns that we have been passing through, but we were lucky to find a bar open in Ostabat where we stopped to warm up with a cafe au lait.

The weather was continuously changing. Before long we had another down pour. It cleared up for a while. Then suddenly came a hail storm.

A pilgrim we met today told us that the high pass over the Pyrenees had been closed the last two days because of the weather. There are two routes that the pilgrims take. The Napoleon route is the high pass that we are hoping to take. The second route is actually the original Camino but goes along the road. When the weather is bad the high route is not safe so sometimes it is closed. We will find out tomorrow when we reach Saint Jean Pied de Port.

Day 9 and 10 Navarrenx and the Eglise de l'Hopital Saint Blaise

The weather reports were saying rain for the next few days and it was so cold and windy on day 8, so we started out on day 9 wearing flu rain gear and extra layers. The day turned out to be a pleasant day and the walk was relatively shorter. We reached Navarrenx in early afternoon and had just enough time to have a beer and cafe au lait before a group lunch at our hotel (the only place open in town, since it was Sunday).

Navarrenx was the first town in France to be fortified with Italian style ramparts. The church of Saint Germaine was built in the 1500s and was soon converted to a Protestant temple. Later, in the 17th century it became a Catholic Church again. In former times Navarrenx had a significant population of Cagots ( an outcast population). Many of them became important public figures in the town.

Since we had time in the afternoon we took a drive to the Elgise de l'Hopital Saint Blaise. It is a 12th century Romanesque church that has now become a UNESCO world heritage site.

Today, day 10, turned out to be another beautiful day. Before leaving Navarrenx we walked a little on the town walls/ramparts. We covered 24 km today the country roads and paths. Saw cows, sheep, ducks, polombiere (pigeon blinds where hunters hide and wait to catch pigeons). Here and there we continue to hear cuckoos, reminding us of our dear friend, Claire, who walked with us on part 1 from Le Puy to Figeac.

Met 4 pilgrims from Germany who walk some of the Camino each year, starting from Heidelberg a few years ago. This year they will walk up to Burgos.

Staying tonight in a farmhouse run by a French/Basque family.

Hard to believe that we have only three more days of walking - 69 km to go. Day after tomorrow we will reach Saint Jean Pied de Port, then begin our Pyrenees climb.

Day 8 Rain and more rain

Today was another rainy day. Our walk was wet and cold, so we didn't take our iPad along and have no photos of the day's journey to post. We walked from Aethez-de-Bearne to the Muret Sanctuary. A shame we didn't stop there because of the weather. It was the site of the Battle of Muret in which the Catholics, led by Simon de Montfort, won a battle against the Cathars.

We would have ended our day at Muret but continued another 4 km to Sauvelade, where a church is all that remains of a Benedictine monastery, built in the 12th century. It was originally dedicated to Mary but later was dedicated to Saint James in honor of the pilgrims who stopped to rest in the abbey.

Now that we are back in our hotel the sun has come out. We looked out our window and were surprised of our view...of the Pyrenees...looking much closer now. In just a few days we'll reach them.

Our hotel has a story. It is a 12th century, 3 story house, that had been in ruins. Two English gentlemen bought the property and renovated it. Now it is a wonderful B&B. Its said that it was the home of the mistress of King Henry IV.

Forgot to mention anything about the blisters...they are there...the worst of any of our journeys. Will loose four toenails soon. Still have to keep walking. An angel is walking with us- Lois from Canada wrapped my toes in lamb's wool yesterday and it felt like I was walking on clouds.

Day 7 in Arthez-de-Bearn

We haven't had internet access for the last few days. Finally we are staying at a hotel in a town called, Arthez-de-Bearn, that has wifi so we can begin to catch up.

The last three days have been very similar - country roads and dirt paths (sometimes muddy), rolling hills.

On DAY 3 we walked about 24 kilometers. We started around 9 am and finished by 5 pm. After we were done we went by van on a side trip to Lupiac (hopefully spelled correctly) which is the town that D'Artagnan, of the three musketeers fame, lived. We planned to visit the museum, and hurried to get there before it closed, but found that it was closed on Mondays.

On DAY 4 we started from Lanne Soubiran. It had a little church with a large porch and an unusual dome. As we walked toward it we expected it to be something other than a church.

It was a long walking day, about 25 km, and pretty hot. Had a picnic lunch in a town called, Barcelonne du Gers

We ended the day at the doorstep of a hotel in Aire sur l'Adour. It was a pretty large and town along the river, Adour. There was some construction going on so we couldn't enter the church, but the next morning (DAY 5) we stopped by a local church near the hotel, a 19th century, Eglise de Sainte Quitterie, which was built on the site of a Benedictine Monastery.

On DAY 5 we walked from Aire sur l'Adour to Pimbo. The street leaving Aire sur l'Adour, was called, Rue Nelson Mandela.

Today we had our first glimpse of the Pyrenees, snow-covered in the distance. Each day from now on they will get closer.

A highlight of DAY 5 was the Eglise de Sensacq. It was an eleventh century church dedicated to St. James. It had a total immersion baptismal font for infants. Somehow it seemed so special. We had walked for so long through woods on a very hot day. Seeing this little beautiful church made us feel so peaceful. Krishna rang the church bell several times before we left. Wish we had taken photos of it on the iPad so we can post them now, but we will have to wait.

We ended the day in Pimbo after a long stretch of a narrow path. Pimbo is an old Batide village founded in 1268. It has a collegiate church of Saint-Barthelmy on the site of a monastery founded by Charlemagne.

On DAY 6, after walking about 7 kilometers, we stopped at a place called, Arzacq-Arrziguet. It is a Bstide town founded in the 14th century. The church had a stained glass window of Saint James. We stopped at a grocery store to get things to carry for a picnic lunch later, and stopped for coffee outside the church, before continuing on. We turned on a small street called, Chemin de Saint-Jacques, and walked along side of a large, artificial lake. We missed our turn off just before the end of the lake and had to backtrack to find our way again.

We ate our picnic lunch in front of a little church in Louvigny and ended our day in Larreule where there was Benedictine monastery on top of a hill above the town, founded in AD 995.

We rode to a hotel in Arthez-de-Bearn where we will stay for three nights. Happy to find that it has wifi and we can start to reconnect with everyone after three days out of touch.

Today, DAY 7, the forecast was rain. The temperature dropped more than ten degrees. It was a cool, wet and gusty day. Luckily, the walk was only 18 km, shorter than most of our days, which have usually been around 24 km. We ended our day's walk in Arthez-de-Bearn early enough to have a short Skype session with La Jolla Golden Triangle Rotary Club just before the meeting began.

Day 3 past Eauze to past Nogaro

We just stopped in Nogaro for lunch and might be able to get Internet here. So maybe we can post a quick blog. All going good. The trek today has been vey much like the last couple days - country roads, sometimes muddy dirt paths through lots of greenery. Few towns along the way.

Few churches today. Stopped at Eglise Hopital Saint Christe, formerly belonging to the order of the Knights of Malta. The church was supposed to be locked because the guidebook says it's in dangerous condition, but it was open.

We only passed one stone cross so far. It was a discoidal cross leading to the town of Nogaro, which takes its name from Nogarium (a place planted with walnuts), established in the eleventh century. Nogaro has a Romanesque church with former hospital Saint Jacques nearby.

May not have more Internet today but we still have more kilometers ahead to walk this afternoon.

Day 2 Montreal du Gers to just past Eauze (23 km)

We are finally getting a few minutes to relax in our room before dinner. We will sleep good tonight after walking 23 kilometers. Yesterday was a long day even though we only walked 18 km. We first had to drive 1 1/2 hours from Toulouse so we started walking late in the morning. Then we made several interesting stops along the way. By the time we got to the hotel we had just enough time for a late dinner then some sleep.

There were only a few small hamlets along today's route. Being Sunday, everything was closed as well. There was only one town today, Eauze (pronounced like 'Oz'). We stopped there for a bit because it was the first time we found wifi. Now we'll have to wait to publish this blog until the next time we have Internet access. The paths today were a bit muddy through it was a beautiful day and slightly warmer than yesterday.

Le Chemin Day 1 (Condom to Montreal du Ger) 18 km

We started our walk in front of the church in the main square of Condom. Here we are (in the photo below, if it downloads correctly) standing in front of the monument to the three Musketeers next the the church as we are about to begin. We were told it was supposed to rain but the day was beautiful.

We first stopped in a village, called, Larresingle, a tiny fortified town, completely walled. It was a 1 kilometer detour to visit the town, but well worth it. the fortress was built by the Bishops of Condom in the Middle Ages. Its said to be the smallest walled town in France. We visited the church and lighted our first candle along the way.

A few kilometers later we stopped at a church, Eglise de Routges, with an interesting story about a side door that had to be used by a sect of people (knows as Cagots) who were not allowed to enter the front door. The Cagots were an outcast population of uncertain ethnic Origin who lived segregated lives until the end of the 19th century.

We finished our walk in Montreal du Gers then visited a Roman villa that is being excavated just outside of town.

Can't write much because its hard to find Internet here. We are just at a cafe in Eauze having a quick cup of coffee (me) and beer (Krishna) before we start walking again. (At the moment were actually on day two. More about this later,,,got to go now)

On our way and a travel nightmare

April 17, 2013, 9:00 AM 

Departure day has finally come!  We're ready and eager to get back to the Camino and start walking again.

Our flight just took off from San Diego.  We can now turn on our electronic devices in airplane mode.  This iPad is still new to me.  At the terminal while we were waiting to board, the iPad said it was connected to wifi but nothing worked.  Hope that's not a sign of what's to come while we are on the Camino and hoping to connect to Internet, email and blog.  

April 18, 3:00 AM (Dallas time), somewhere over the Atlantic

We boarded our connecting flight in Dallas as scheduled.  Then after all the passengers were all seated on the aircraft the announcement came...'bad news, we would all have to disembark so they could check the plane'.  At the gate we were told that our plane could not cross the Atlantic.  We would have to wait for another plane. 

The delay would not have been that bad except that this flight was only getting us to Paris.  We had booked a separate flight to Toulouse, via Lyon.  Now we would miss that flight.  The change fee and new flight charge was steep so our next option is to see about taking a train once we get there.

We finally boarded the flight and I checked email on my phone one last time, just on time to receive two fraud alerts from American Express.  Had just enough time to call and learn that my card had been used for several questionable transactions in Canada.  Was able to cancel the transactions and the card immediately.

While we now aren't sure how we will get to Toulouse because of this flight delay, there is a silver lining.  We found out about the credit card fraud right when it happened and were able to take care of it before the problem could get worse.  

April 18, 4:00 pm, Lyon, France

We actually made it to our next flight with literally one minute to spare.  The plane made up some time with the help of tail winds.  We had a half hour to get thru customs, baggage claim, shuttle to a different terminal, and run to ticketing, then found that the flight was delayed 20 minutes.  We're now in Lyon waiting for our connecting flight to Toulouse.  We're back on schedule again!

Not quite a nightmare any more, but plenty of excitement for sure!

Almost time for departure

Just a few days left before we embark on this journey!  This weekend we took our last long hike before departure.  Last year, on our last long hike before our trek I ended up with a stress fracture and was unable to hike for entire trip, so this year, we definitely didn't want to be too ambitious.  We covered some of our favorite trails in the canyons that weave through and around the neighborhoods of Tierrasanta, then entered the vast expanse of trails in Mission Trails Regional Park.

From West Shepherd Canyon you can see North Fortuna

The Tierrasanta canyon trails have new signs

Krishna checks out some wildflowers

 Anyway, we both feel ready, both physically and mentally.  No aches and pains.  The toes, knees and backs are feeling good.  I can tell that Krishna is ready to once again be a pilgrim along the Camino - this morning he stopped to appreciate some purple wildflowers that he noticed for the first time, and during last week's hike he paused to protect a caterpillar as it made its way across the path.  He is living in the moment.
  

On Friday we were surprised with a beautiful send-off, emotional for us, from our Rotary Club, which included a reading form "The Prophet" by Kahlil Gibran, which started, "Then said a rich man, "Speak to us of giving". And he answered:  You give but little when you give of your possessions.  It is when you give of yourself that you truly give..."  A familiar reading with words full of meaning.

We attended a second Friday meeting at another Rotary Club as a make-up meeting.  In spite of our travels, we still try to keep our record of perfect attendance.  We visit other clubs wherever we travel.  Attending a meeting overseas is always an experience.  We've made many new Rotarian friends that way.  Attending a meeting in Peru even led us to an NGO that we continue to be connected with and that our own club supported by providing materials for guinea pig farms in a community outside of Cusco.  You never know what may come out of visiting a Rotary Club in another country.  This time, though, we couldn't find any clubs in France or Spain that meet on the days that match our hiking and travel schedule.

The Journey and the La Jolla Golden Triangle Rotary Club

Our journey begins in less than 2 weeks.  Time to backtrack and think about why we decided to start writing this blog in the first place. 

We finalized our plans to walk the last part of Le Chemin de Saint Jacques last October.  As we were going on one of our almost daily morning walks, we talked about our 5 treks along the Camino over the last 10 years and how this coming trek would take us over the Pyrenees to Roncesvalles, Spain, the starting point of the Spanish Camino, and tie together a JOURNEY OF 1000 MILES for us.  Krishna suggested - "what better way to complete this journey than to dedicate these last miles of walking to support our La Jolla Golden Triangle Rotary Club".  That's how the idea for a club fundraiser began.

Donors can pledge support based on the miles we will walk, the number of days walked, or just specify a donation amount.  Donations can be made online at the La Jolla Golden Triangle Rotary Club webpage: http://lajollagtrotary.org/ .  Donations can also be made by check payable to:  La Jolla Golden Triangle Rotary Foundation.  Put "A Journey of 1000 Miles" on the memo line, and mail to:

La Jolla Golden Triangle Rotary Club
P.O. Box 13023
La Jolla, CA 92039

All funds donated will be used for Club service projects.  Members are currently involved in many local and international projects.  How it works - members who have project ideas or who have hands-on involvement with a particular non-profit organization share their interest with the club at committee level meetings.  The committee will decide if it is able to support the project hands-on and/or financially (if needed and if money is available in the budget).  The member who introduced the project takes the lead in planning and seeing the project through completion.

In recent years the club has supported several of the projects that we have been passionate about:

In India - provided new toilet blocks for a school for blind children in Behrampur, India
In Pakistan - Built a water filtration plant that provides clean drinking water to an entire community in Jhang, Pakistan
In Peru - installed a solar panel on a school in Q'eros, an isolated region in the Andes where there is no electricity.  The solar panel provides enough electricity for 20 light bulbs and provides the only electricity for the hamlet of Munay T'ika.
In Peru- provided the construction materials for the roofs of two guinea pig sheds in the community of Lahualahua, in order to help families of the community expand productive capability and become economically stable.

Some of the local organizations and/or projects our club is involved in include:

Braille Institute
Ronald Mc Donald House
Salvation Army TLC
San Diego Rescue Mission
Voices for Children
Dress for Success
Social Advocates for Youth
CCSA Holiday Baskets
Police Project
Camp Pendleton
Rotarians at Work Day
Therapeutic Horsemanship/Upward Bound
VA Hospital Visitation
YMCA OZ
Educator of the Year
Four Way Test Speech Contest (high school students)
Model UN
LEAD (Leadership, Ethics and Determination) Conference for 8th graders
Literacy Program
Preuss School Projects
(Interact, Symphony and Theatre trips, Service above Self Scholarship)
USD Upward Bound
USD Expanding your Horizons
UCSD Rotaract
RYLA (Rotary Youth Leadership Award)
Salk Mobile Science Unit
Sister Schools
High School Institute

Some of our club's international projects during the current Rotary year include:

Afghanistan: Sister Cities (Jalalabad-San Diego)
Afghanistan: Rotary Projects
Guatemala: Computer Labs
Indonesia: Bali Educare Program
Indonesia: HIV/AIDS Project
Kenya: WAPIs
Kenya: Children's Peace Initiative
Mexico: Surgery MOST
Mexico: San Diego Zoo Trip
Mexico: Children's Hospital (District Grant)
Mexico: Tijuana Safe House
Mexico: Ensenada School Project
Mexico: Thousand Smiles
Nepal: Donkey or Yak (for single mother)
Peru: Guinea Pig Farms
Philippines: Surgery
South Africa: Reading Program
Tibet: Scholarship
Turkey: Breast Cancer Awareness Training
Uganda: Hospital Water Project
USA: Somali Sewing Project
USA: Non-Rotary IPJ (Inst for Peace & Justice) Scholars
USA: Project Refuge
USA: Rotary Scholars at UCSD
USA: Rotary Scholars at USD
USA: UCSD International Cafe
USA: USC Rotaract
Worldwide: Shelterbox

Each of the above are lead by members who are passionate about their individual projects and supported by club members who are able to participate in the activities.  So, you can see how active this club is!  Sorry the above is just a long list.  There are too many items to write about each one, but you can check the club webpage or contact me to find out more.  

Rock Art

Saw this rock art on the trail this morning.  We see it often on the Camino as well.  I think there is an actual name for this but I can't remember what it is. Does anybody know what it's called?

Local hiking and foot pain

This weekend we had glorious weather for hiking. One of the best things about our neighborhood is the easy access to wonderful hiking trails, long and short. We hardly ever get in the car and drive somewhere to hike. Its just a few minutes walk from our door to a trailhead for Mission Trails Regional Park. Mission Trails has around 50+ miles of hiking trails, so the possibilities are endless. Also, for shorter hikes, we can pick one or more of several canyon trails that weave through the neighborhood.

Last week I had some great news at a visit to my podiatrist. Xrays showed no sign of the stress fracture I had last year. That means its completely healed. The pain I've been feeling in my left foot was actually due to a hammer toe that is out of alignment and causing pressure on the metatarsal bones. My podiatrist showed me a way to wrap the hammer toe with paper tape when I hike. I tried it on Saturday and...no pain! The tape ended up causing a blister on the next toe, but that was easily patched up with moleskin.

I can now walk with no fear of re-stressing the stress fracture. What a relief! I've been so worried that the pain I was noticing was due to the old injury coming back.

I'm writing this blog on the iPad we'll be using on the Camino next month in order to get familiar with using it. It doesn't have the same options as on the computer, so I haven't figured out how to move photos around or change their size yet.

The photo below was taken at Mission Trails on Sunday, just a few minutes walk from home. Hard to believe how quickly one can get away from the hustle and bustle. Wildflowers are starting to bloom and there's more green on the trail thanks to the rains we had earlier this year.

Preparing for the Walk

Had our first workout with our trainer yesterday and came up with a training plan for the next 4 weeks, which is pretty much like our normal exercise routine anyway:

Monday - 1 day per week - workout with trainer
Tuesday - morning walk and workout
Wednesday - pilates session
Thursday - pilates session
Friday - walk and workout, but sometimes Friday turns out to be a day of rest because we have our Rotary Club meeting in the morning.  If we don't get our walk or workout done first thing in the morning, it often doesn't happen.
Saturday and Sunday - hiking days; at least one day should be a long hike

While in India we took morning walks at Lodhi Garden in New Delhi.  When there was enough time, we could also do our workout there.  Here's a photo of Krishna working out amid the Mugal ruins of Lodhi Gardens.

Time to get serious

Back from India. Now it's time to focus on training for the Camino! Started the day with a glass of protein drink then went for a hike. Made our favorite drink when we got home - beets, apples, carrots and lemon juice blended in the Vitamix. Sure missed this the last three weeks.

In New Delhi we took several morning walks at Lodhi Garden, so close to where we were staying. It was amazing to walk amid the Mughal ruins there. The grounds there were really spread out and so well-kept, with many of the plants and trees marked with their botanical names. Each day we found a new Mughal tomb, watch tower or other ruin to explore. How lucky to get this experience.

The feet did get some rest while we were traveling and my foot injury had plenty of time to heal. Now we're very ready to do some serious walking.

Le Chemin de Saint Jacques

In 2011 we began walking le Chemin de Saint Jacques, an approximately 500 mile route which starts in Le Puy en Velay and meets the Camino de Santiago in Spain at Roncesvalles.  That year, we walked from Le Puy in Velay to Figeac, and in 2012 we walked from Figeac to Condom, France.  In April we will go back to France to start in Condom, where we left off.  This journey will take us from France to Spain, over the Pyrenees to Roncesvalles, where we began the Camino de Santiago several years ago, and complete our "journey of 1000 miles".  This blog has photos and memories of the first parts of our journey in France.
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Le Chemin de Saint Jacques begins in Le Puy en Velay at the Romanesque Cathedral of Notre Dame. We picked up our pilgrim passports at the cathedral sacristy.  Every morning there is a mass at 7 AM followed by a pilgrim blessing.  The cathedral houses the most famous of the black madonnas in this region.  The black madonnas were carved in dark walnut or cedar and have blackened with age.  We spent a couple days in this beautiful town before starting.

The town of Le Puy en Velay is located in a volcanic area.  The chapel of Saint Michel is built atop a lava cone.  You have to climb 267 steps to visit it.

We often saw this sign telling us how many kilometers it is to Santiago de Compostela.  The route mostly follows the GR65 (Grande Randonne, a French footpath).  In Spain, the waymark to watch for is a yellow arrow, but in France the waymark is a white and red stripe, which could be a sticker, or just painted on a tree, or rock, or wall. 


The chapel of Saint Roch near Montbonnet.  Saint Roch is the French patron saint of pilgrims.

The day started out sunny but by afternoon as we walked thru a forest path, it began to rain.

A few of the many crossed we saw each day along le Chemin.

The Pont de Marchastel over the river Bes, en-route to Nasbanals.

Arriving at the village of Domerie d'Aubrac. The gate leads to the monastery church.  Aubrac was founded in 1120 by a Flemish knight who was attacked by bandits on his way to Santiago and almost died there.  On his return journey, in gratitude, he founded Aubrac as a place of refuge for pilgrims.

Walking from Domerie Aubrac to Saint-Chely-d'Aubrac.  Such a peaceful path that seemed to be endless.







The church in Saint-Come d'Olt has an unusual, twisted spire.  Olt is the old name for the River Lot.  From Saint-Come d'Olt we crossed a gothic bridge and walked along the Lot River (le Lot) to the next town of Espalion. 









The small medieval town of Estaing has a gothic bridge over the Lot, and a 15th century church with a stone cross depicting a tiny pilgrim

Estaing's 15th century chruch

Stone cross in Estaing

After a ruggedly steep decent, we arrived in Conques, a most beautiful medieval village.  Conques is built around the Abbey of Sainte-Foy.  Sainte Foy (Faith) was a young girl who was an early Christian martyr.  A monk brought her relics from Agen to Conques to attract pilgrims.  Conques was a remote spot, but because of the relics, it became a well-known halt on the route.  This town was amazing.  We wandered up and down the cobbled streets in awe.

Cobbled street in Conques

The Abbey Church of Sainte Foy.  This was the magnificent view from our B&B window when we opened the shutters in the morning.  The fog gradually rolled away.

The tympanum of the Abbey Church is an early 12th century  sculpture of the Last Judgement.








Figeac was our last stop in 2011.  We returned to Figeac in 2012 to continue part 2 of le Chemin, from Figeac to Condom.  Figeac is known as the home of Champollion, who interpreted hieroglyphics.  The Musee Champollion has a cast of the Rosetta stone in its courtyard.

Perched high above the Lot River is  St-Cirq-Lapopie, one of France's prettiest villages.  It has a 15th century church and timber-framed houses built along its cobble-stoned and hilly streets.

Cobbled street of Saint Cirq

Cobbled path to St. Cirq's church

Leaving St-Cirq-Lapopie the path immediately descends steeply to the riverbank and this amazing path cut into the rock at the river's edge.

On May day, May 1, 2012, lunch was at a picnic ground along the Lot River in Vers.  We ended the day at Arcambal by a river bank filled with nettles. 

We passed beautiful villages which reflected in the water of the Lot River, along the route from Arcambal to Cahors.

Cahors' cathedral is most well known for its renaissance style cloisters with some intricate carvings.

The historic Pont Valentre in Cahors, the finest fortified bridge in Europe, and a highlight of this leg of our journey.  Its been used by so many pilgrims overs the centuries.

Lauzerte, a Bastide hill town dating from the 12th century.  It was a medieval market village with a large main square.  An unuswal feature is the cabblestone lifted up like a carpet on the corner facing the church.  You may be able to see it in the photo.

le Chemin marker on a tree

Krishna meets an old woman who is glowing with happiness as she walks

Moissac's Abbey Church, part Romanesque (the stone) and part Gothic (the brick) has a very unusually carved portal.

The Abbey of St. Pierre in Moissac is a masterpiece of French Romanesque.  Each carved capital has a story.

Walking the hill overlooking Moissac

A well-deserved rest!

So many crosses to pause at along the way.

The town of Le Romieu was founded by two Benedictine monks on their return from Rome.  This is part of the Collegiate church built there in the 14th century.  The church is an UNESCO World Heritage site.

Ready for our last day of the 2012 journey, from Romieu to Condom.

Popular among tourists who visit Condom is a monument honoring the 4 Musketeers who lived in nearby Auch.






Our 2012 journey ends in Condom.