Our First Camino Experience

The first time we walked the Camino was in 2002.  At that time, it was just a dream to be able to walk the entire 500 mile route across northern Spain.  Besides the time commitment it required, we weren't sure if we were capable enough to walk 500 miles carrying a full backpack or if my Spanish would be enough to get us through.  We decided that it would be best to find a group to travel with.  We only found one tour group that covered the entire Camino in a two-week period with a combination of walking and driving.  So we joined that group, called, Spanish Steps, which provided van support and prearranged where we would stay each night.    

Other than the walking, which definitely kept us tired and sore, our experience was, for sure, a lot more comfortable than the pilgrims who travel carrying all belongings in a backpack and need to stop at refugios to find a place to stay each night.

During these 2 weeks we walked 124 miles of the 500 mile route.  Something kept drawing us back and telling us that we still needed to complete the full pilgrimage.

Below are a few photos from our first Camino experience along with some comments or excerpts from my travel journal.

Parade of gigantes in Pamplona

Before starting the Camino we stayed in Pamplona for a couple days on our own.  There was a huge fiesta going on.  The streets were filled with people of all ages celebrating and walking along side a parade of gigantes (giant plaster statues).  The celebrating went on through most of the night, so it was pretty impossible to get any sleep.

Puente la Reina, entrance to the pilgrim's bridge

We were excitedly anticipating entering the town of Puente la Reina and walking over the Romanesque bridge that we had heard so much about - the Puente de los Peregrinos, which crosses the River Arga.  It has 6 arches and an unusual hump-backed shape and is probably the most recognized bridge along the road to Santiago.
 

Puente de los Peregrinos

A view of the pilgrim's bridge from Calle Mayor with its beautiful symmetrical shape reflected in the water.

Upon entering Puente la Reina it seemed like such a busy and large town.  We found out later that it is actually quite small.  We had entered the town at the junction of 2 major highways, so this location was a high traffic area.  Its surprising what a different impression you can get when you enter a town on foot instead of by car.

Reaching the Cruz de Hierro -
After we passed the ruined village of Foncebadon, the trail became windy and woodsy.  Krishna walked far ahead of the group.  Whenever he started to meditate while walking (which was more and more as each day of the pilgrimage passed) he really move fast with his massive staff in his hand.  Soon the path became so narrow that we had to squeeze through the bushes single file to get by.  As the path opened, we followed a main road and suddenly the Cruz de Hierro came into view.  Its a pretty simple monument - just a plain cross attached to a tall wooden stake.  The custom is to add a rock from home to the pile around the cross.  This ancient tradition even pre-dates Roman times (when stone heaps were "mounds of Mercury" the god of travelers; there are legends that ancient travelers followed this path guided by the Milky Way, to reach Finisterre at the Atlantic coast of Spain, the end of the known world)  To add religions significance, we prayed as we held our stones from home for the needs and prayers of our families and loved ones.  We climbed the hill of stones and added our stones to the top of the pile.  Today, it seems that people are leaving more than just rocks.  Things like shoes, ribbons and other mementos are scattered on the mound.

 

When we arrived at the town of Villafranca del Bierzo, the first place we reached was the Iglesia de Santiago, a small church on the left side of the road.  The side door (the North Portal) of this church is the "Puerta del Perdon".  A Spanish pope in the 15th century granted that pilgrims who reached this far but were to sick to go on the Santiago de Compostela, could enter this door and receive the same absolution and plenary indulgences as if they had reached the Apostle's tomb in Santiago. We were not to sick to go on and, by now, our blisters had healed. We did touch the door in awe and reverence to the holy and blessed people who have passed this way for generations.

Just beyond the church was the Hospital de Santiago, now a pilgrim's refugio.  A man dressed in ancient pilgrim garb was standing around the grounds,  I wondered what his purpose was - was he a religious person, or just posing for photos with pilgrims who would pay him.  We used the servicios at the refugio and left some money with the worker, since we didn't need to buy anything to eat or drink.

 On this day we started from the 36-kilometer marked in the town of Arzua.  We couldn't believe that in only 2 days we would be in Santiago.  We've come this far but what change will this make?  Will life just be as it was once we return home?  My thoughts seem so petty as I'm walking.  I want to think about ways to change, something significant, but still, its easier to think about petty things.  I decided to focus just on my breathing.  Maybe if I can do this for a while my petty thoughts will go away and I can pray and perhaps reach some spiritual enlightenment,  It doesn't happen.  But the walk is so beautiful, so close to nature.  Feels so good.  So that's it - just appreciate the beauty of each moment we have and accept life as it comes.  Each day, if we pause to notice, life is full of little miracles.  Krishna was wearing his Qualcomm tie-dyed T-shirt.  We paused as we passed by a chicken coop and noticed that all the chickens and roosters walked as near as they could get to Krishna and then put one leg up - as though they were saluting him.  They must have been attracted to the brightness of his T-shirt.  By the time I got the camera ready, most of the chickens left, but you can see one remaining chicken, standing at attention, in this photo.

Our last morning of walking was Friday, October 4, 2002.  Just 21 kilometers left to reach the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.  The first part of the day we walked through small Gallego farms, as in the few days before, and then through a forest area.  In one area the path was hewn between rows of man-made rock fences.  The greenery grew thick and shaded the path like a forest tunnel.  It was beautiful.  I really wanted to take a photo, but, once again, we needed to keep walking. I told Krishna that I would have to take a mental photo of this path to remember later.  There were so many beautiful paths each day and each moment was so different.  Wish I could have captured more in photographs, but they will mostly be in memories only.  Some paths had big stones placed to make crossing a stream easier.  One had flagstones that required hopping from one to the next.  Such beautiful memories - I think I only took photos of the convenient sites.  It would have been great to have photos of the more challenging spots where we had to pay attention to our steps rather than stop for photos. 

Soon we got close to the outskirts of Santiago de Compostela.  First we passed the town of Lavacolla and walked along the side of the Santiago airport runway.  We came, then to the Santiago stone marker.  We were almost there!

We continued walking, ascending gradually along the side of a mountain and passing some attractive residential areas and then an industrial area.  Finally we reached the Monte de Gozo (Mount of Joy), the hill overlooking ithe city.  This hill got its name because, from this spot, pilgrims could get their first glimpse of the Santiago de Compostela and its Cathedral spires.  At one time the view must have been of a green valley and a small town with majestic cathedral spires.  Today, though, the city has grown so much that the view is of a bustling city with many houses and buildings.  The spires were hard to find through the trees and buildings.  As we viewed it, I felt tears welling in my eyes, but wonderful joy in my heart.

Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela

We follow the Camino markers into the city and eventually the streets become narrow and cobbled.  We reach the Cathedral from the side and need to go under a stone walkway.  A man is standing in the walkway playing a bagpipe.  We are overflowing with emotion as we leave a few coins for him, then, turn the corner and find ourselves in the middle of the Plaza del Obradorio directly in front of the Cathedral.  Kilometer 0 (zero) is marked on a stone in the middle of the Plaza.

The Pilgrim Passport and the Compostela

Part of my pilgrim passport from our 2002 pilgrimage

When you start the pilgrimage you must get a pilgrim passport from a refugio (inn where pilgrims can stay overnight along the Camino path) or pilgrim office.  The pilgrim's passport is a small leaflet with spots for stamps.  You can get the stamps (sellos) at refugios, churches, bars, or town halls along the way.  When you arrive in Santiago de Compostela, you must go to the pilgrim's office near the Cathedral and present the stamped passport as proof that you actually completed the pilgrimage. 

If the proof is validated, you will receive a "Compostela", a pilgrim certificate, which, since the 14th century, is awarded to those who can prove that they have covered at least the last 100 kilometers of the pilgrim route.  When we completed the Camino for the first time (in 2002) the lady behind the desk had a big book which had a list of names transcribed into Latin.  She couldn't find either "Krishna" or "Bonnie" in her book.  She used my saint name, St. Boniface, so my name, transcribed into Latin, became, Bonifacum.

For Krishna, though, after a few minutes of deciding what to do, she just spelled his name as is.

When we completed the Camino again in 2005 and 2007 we again stopped at the pilgrim's office to receive our Compostelas.  Things had changed and they were no longer transcribing names into Latin.